Advanced Enterprises of Wrexham for fine sewing machines and superb service

This is the first of a series of sewing blogs from sewing machine specialists Advanced Enterprises of Wrexham. We hope you find it useful.

Measuring your window for curtains

Unless it’s a very small window, you’ll need a metal tape measure for this, and it’s always wise to MEASURE TWICE. Mistakes are expensive! If you live in an old character house, measure the window at several points as sometimes old windows aren’t square – then work with the longest measurements.

You need the width and the height (often called the Drop). Keep note of the measurements in a safe place.

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Choosing curtain fabric

For small windows you can use a lightweight material if you like, but for larger windows you will usually need a heavier weight of fabric. You can buy this at shops that sell upholstery fabrics. Ask for a small sample of the fabric to take home before buying, so you can check the colours in the light your room.

BUY QUALITY – the best you can afford. Good quality fabric will be woven straight, and not lose its colour in sunlight. In particular curtain fabric should not stretch in any direction so test it by pulling gently.

Buying the right amount of curtain fabric

Make sure you include enough material for the hems at the top, bottom and sides. The width of the fabric should be a MINIMUM of one and a half times the width of the window, and preferably it should be twice the width. If you’re going to use curtain tape which gives more complicated pleating – such as pencil pleating – you may need even more. Check with the staff when buying, explaining what sort of pleating you are planning.

If you’re going to make tab-top curtains, include extra fabric to make the tabs. Tabs should be cut in the same direction as the main curtain, with the selvedge edge running vertically, so you could need as much as an extra 30 cms of fabric.

Finally, if the material is patterned, and your window is wider than the width of the fabric, you will have to sew two pieces together, and match the pattern which will take extra fabric, especially if it’s a pattern with a big repeat. If you’re not sure about all this, take the measurements with you and explain to the staff exactly what you want so they can help you buy the right amount.

Curtain lining fabric and weights

If you’re intending to line your curtains, you’ll need to buy curtain lining fabric too. You’ll also need enough curtain tape, if you’re sewing a taped curtain, and you’ll need enough thread. If you can’t get an exact colour match for the thread, choose one that’s slightly darker than the fabric.

You might like to weight down your curtains with curtain weights. These will help stop the curtains blowing about if the window is left open, and will encourage neat folds. They are sewn into the bottom hem. You’ll need to talk to the staff to make sure you buy the right size weights for the weight of the fabric.

Don’t put curtain weights in curtains intended for children’s room. They are made of lead, and can be dangerous if swung about or sucked.

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Cutting out curtains

Measure and measure again before cutting out! Use good quality dressmaking shears (these will last you for decades if carefully looked after and not used for anything except fabric, so are well worth investing in). Mark your cutting line with pins or dressmakers’ chalk before cutting so you’ve got a line to follow.

If the fabric got creased in the bag on the way home, iron out the creases before cutting.

Cut out onto a hard surface such as a big table or a hard floor.

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Preparing to sew your curtains

Prepare all seams or hems by either basting or pinning in place.

If you baste, use a contrasting colour of thread so you can easily find it later to unpick it. It can help to iron hems in place first.

Sewing the curtains

If you need to sew two pieces together to make one curtain, do it first. Make sure you match patterns or stripes, and sew with a 2.5 cm seam and iron the seam open. If you have 3 pieces to make up two curtains, cut one in half lengthways, and sew one to each of the whole pieces to make two curtains of equal width.

Next sew the side hems. These should be selvedge edges so won’t need finishing, but if they aren’t, double hem to create a neat edge. It’s a good idea to make a small snip in the selvedge about every 45 cms to make sure the hem doesn’t pucker. Iron the hems.

Sew the top next. If you’re making tab top curtains, make the tabs first. To do this you make a tube, and turn it inside out and iron flat with the seam running down the centre back. Make one of these for each tab. You can then tuck the raw edges into the hem at the top of the curtain. Measure the spacing between tabs carefully so they are equally spaced.

For tape top curtains, or curtains with rings, make a deep double hem at the top of the curtain, and attach the rings or sew on the tape afterwards. Tape usually needs to be about 8 or 10 cms down from the top edge so the curtain will stick up above the rail when the curtains are hanging.

Pull the strings in the tape to the actual width of the window and tie loosely. Don’t cut the strings, as you might want to alter the width later, for example, if you use the curtains for a different window in the future.

It’s a good idea at this point to hang the curtains, so you can mark the bottom hem accurately. If you’re hanging heavy curtains, you’ll need someone else to help take the weight of the fabric until the curtain is hung, or you can find that the curtain is hanging from one hook or tab for a while and this puts huge strain on that one hook or tab and can rip the fabric. If you have to hang the curtains alone, let the top of the step ladders take the weight of the rest of the curtain, until you’ve got most of it up.

With heavy curtains, wait a couple of hours to let them ‘settle’ before you measure for the bottom hem.

Measure and turn up a double hem at the bottom, and sew. If you’re using weights, place these in the hem, and hand stitch in place.

Traditionally, the bottom hem was hand sewn so the stitching didn’t show on the front of the curtain. You may find your machine has a hem-stitch which is ideal to use for this type of hem.

Making lined curtains

A lining will make the curtains better at keeping out light, and draughts and help retain heat. You will need the same amount of lining material as the main curtain fabric.

Sew the curtains and linings right sides together at the sides when you’re making up the curtains, turn right sides out, and iron, so that the lining is slightly narrower than the main curtain. Sew the top as though it is a single piece of fabric.

It’s best to hem the lining separately from the main curtain so they hang well. Unpick a little way up each side seam, using an unpicker, and hem separately.

You can make linings that are separate from the main curtain, so they can be removed in the summer. In this case, you’ll need to make the entire lining separately, and sew hooks and eyes at the top so they can be attached to the bottom edge of the CURTAIN TAPE, not the curtain fabric.

How to get the best from your sewing machine machine

• Make sure your machine is cleaned and serviced regularly.
• Use a new needle for a big job like this one. It will sew better, and not snag the fabric.
• Practice with a scrap of fabric first to make sure the tension is right.
• Support the weight of the fabric as it goes through the machine, so it doesn’t pull at the needle.
• Use the measure marked in the footplate to measure the seams and hems as you sew.

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Equipment you’ll need

• Sewing machine
• Needles
• Dressmakers’ shears
• Snips
• Pins
• Dressmakers’ chalk (recommended but optional)
• Tape measure
• Unpicker

If you need sewing accessories just visit: www.advance-enterprises.com